How to Use Paint in Arts

Special paint treatments such as graphics, murals, and stenciling can transform your walls into works of art and make them the focal point of the room.

GRAPHICS

Used primarily to highlight architectural features or major furnishings, graphics are also good vehicles for adding a splash of color when you don’t want to repaint an entire room. Depending on the effect you want to achieve, colors can be subtle shades of the wall color or vibrant, contrasting colors.

If the area you’re planning to cover with a graphic design isn’t newly painted, it must be properly cleaned and prepared before you can begin. Plan your graphic design to scale on graph paper. Then use a tape measure and chalk to transfer the design lines to the wall. If you want to reproduce the graph paper grid on the wall, snap chalk lines vertically and horizontally. Then use chalk to mark the design within the grid lines.

Place masking tape along the outside edge of the design lines, one color section at a time. Use specially made paint masking tape—it won’t lift any paint off the wall when it’s removed. Be sure the tape is secure so paint can’t seep under it. Let the paint set before removing the tape.

MURALS

Bring a whole new field of vision into your room with a mural. One type of mural, the tromp l’oeil, is the master of deception. Literally meaning “fool of the eye,” tromp l’oeil is a technique that can produce a startlingly lifelike mural. It can enlarge your room dramatically by adding a garden that seemingly goes on forever, or a window with a beautiful “view” of the mountains.

It’s the use of shading in the tromp l’oeil mural that suggests three dimensions, instead of two. Because of this feeling of depth, even a stylized rendition of an object will fool the viewer at first glance. If you want the originality of a mural but aren’t confident about your skills, consider a do-it-yourself mural kit, available at many paint stores.

Preparation for painting a mural is the same as for graphics. To plot your design and transfer it to the wall, see the instructions above.

STENCILING—A TRADITION FOR TODAY

Stenciling, a traditional form of wall decoration, is regaining some of its former popularity, even as it takes on some modern interpretations. It’s an easy and inexpensive technique with powerful, exciting, and unique results.

Add a stencil design to the walls as a finishing touch to any room. The design can run vertically, horizontally, around corners, or even over the entire wall. You can pick up a pattern from draperies, upholstery, or bathroom tiles, or use your own design, highlighting the colors of a rug or favorite piece of art.

Supplies you’ll need

Most of the tools and supplies you’ll need can be purchased where artists’ supplies are sold or ordered from paint manufacturers or stencil kit companies. Paints recommended for stenciling include japan, acrylic, and artists’ oil paints. Japan colors (japan paints or signwriter’s japan colors) are flat, opaque paints that dry instantly. You’ll need turpentine for thinning and cleanup.

Acrylic paints are water-based paints, providing for easy cleanup and quick drying. Use them only with mylar stencils since these paints can cause the edges of acetate to curl after repeated use.

Artists’ oil paints provide brilliant colors, but take a long time to dry and require some skill to avoid smudges. Use them alone or mixed into japan colors to add brilliancy. Turpentine is the recommended solvent.

Stencil brushes have stiff bristles cut off bluntly at the end; they’re arranged in a thick circular shape. You’ll need a separate brush for each color.

Stencils may be purchased ready-made or in kits containing paints. For unique designs, you can make your own stencils. To apply stencils, have on hand a steel tape measure, plumb line, chalk, masking tape, lots of paper towels, and a drop cloth.

Preparation and planning

Clean and paint the walls before you begin stenciling. To paint, use either a flat or satin-finish water-based or oil-based paint. Glossy finishes aren’t recommended because the stencil paint won’t adhere to the surface. Wood surfaces can be painted, stained, or varnished; use either a satin or semi-gloss finish.

Next, check the walls, ceilings, and floors for straightness. If there’s any curvature, you’ll have to hang plumb lines to set a straight path for your stencils.

To plan placement, measure the width (or height for vertical placement) of the wall to determine how many stencil repeats will fit. Arrange designs from the center of the wall out to the edges so corners will match. You may want to reduce the space between designs so they’ll be complete at the corners.

Make a colored print of your stencil on a piece of paper and hang it on the wall. Check it for size, scale, and placement. Using a steel tape measure or a chalk line, mark stencil placement guidelines.

Applying the paint

It’s best to work only with a small amount of paint at a time. Since the paint is applied thinly, a little goes a long way; also, stenciling paints dry quickly on your palette. Mix paints to a creamy, not runny consistency. If necessary, add a drop or two of thinner to japan and oil paints.

With masking tape, secure the first stencil to the wall along the guidelines. Dip the tip of the stencil brush into the paint, picking up only a small amount of paint. (If there’s too much paint on the brush, paint can seep under the stencil edges.)

Apply paint either by pouncing the brush (tapping it directly against the wall) or by using a circular motion working from the outside of each shape toward the center. Though pouncing is the traditional method, it will make your arms sore quickly. Both methods will produce an attractive variation of color, but don’t let the color become inconsistent or faded.

After you’ve filled in all the shapes on the stencil, leave the stencil on the wall for about a minute. Then remove it and continue to the next stencil placement. Before the paint dries, wipe off smudges. Also keep some extra wall paint on hand for any spills.

Finishing up

When your project is completed, clean and store your tools. Gently wipe the stencils with paper towels and solvent, keeping the stencils flat to prevent tears. Store them flat.

It’s not necessary to apply a finish over the stenciled areas, unless you want extra protection. To protect against water and dirt, coat the stenciling with flat varnish. After several months, stenciled walls can be cleaned with mild soap and warm water.

How to make your own stencil

The number of stencils you’ll need for your design depends on how many colors you’re using and how intricate your design is. Each color requires a separate stencil, unless the design cuts are spaced far apart. If the design has many small pieces or lines running closely together, use separate stencils.

Materials you’ll need

Purchase either clear acetate (.0075 gauge) or frosted mylar (.005 gauge) for the stencil. Acetate, for use with japan or oil paints, is transparent, so you can layer as many pieces as you need when you’re transferring the design and you’ll still be able to see the original design clearly. Mylar is translucent; you’ll only be able to layer up to four sheets on your design. You can use mylar with acrylic or japan paints.

To trace designs onto the stencil material, use a technical drawing pen and India ink. A black felt-tip pen also works on mylar. You’ll need a utility knife, sharp razor blades, and a piece of plate glass to cut the stencil. Cover the edges of the glass with masking tape.

Transferring the design

Draw the design to the desired size and color it. Be sure the drawing begins and ends at the same place so there’s no break in the design when it’s repeated. Cut the stencil material to the size of the design, adding a 1-inch margin to all edges.

Tape the stencil material over the design and trace the design lines for the first color. If you’re using more than one stencil, leave the first one in place and tape additional ones on top. Add registration marks to each one. To make a registration mark, trace an area of the design from the first stencil using a dotted line. Don’t cut this line, but use it for aligning the new stencil with the pattern. Mark the top right side of each stencil and number the stencils in their order of application.

Cutting the stencils

Place the stencils, one at a time, on the plate glass; be sure the glass is on a flat, firm surface. Using a utility knife, cut the stencil. Draw the knife towards you in a smooth, continuous movement. Trim any jagged edges.